Friday, August 18, 2006

France Saga - Part V

Saturday, August 12:
I arrived at the Chateau de St. Paterne grouchy and stiff, but the moment I walked through the door and was greeted by the smell of scented candles and handmade soap, all that was pulling me down was peeled away and left lying on the doorstep. I opted to stay behind as the rest of the family went into AlĂ©ncon; it was a hard decision, but I have been in need of some downtime all week and I can’t imagine a more perfect place to unwind. The Chateau is actually a family home owned by Charles Henry and Segolene de Valbray; they live here with their two (almost three) children. This mansion was built in the 15th century and has been in his family for 400 years; the rooms we’ve taken once belonged to his grandfather and grandmother. Just off the landing on the second floor are two doors leading to the two sections of the second floor (See picture: All four large windows on the second floor belonged to us; mine were the two on the left). Our door opens up to a hallway that both of our rooms are entered from. Both are not only huge and have their own hearths, but each have a smaller room attached and have their own incredible bathrooms as well. The furniture and artwork are antique (one painting pre-dating the completion of the Louvre), the heavy drapery and bed cover fabrics are rich and dated, the walls are paneled (beige with blue accents) and there’s a decanter on the bureau containing something brown and potent that tastes like nothing I’ve ever tried before; a little like crown royal with a smidge of sweetness. Before settling down in my room with tea and music playing from the complimentary stereo, I explored the lounge rooms on the first floor and the grounds, tried to check my email on a computer and keyboard that were all in French and played a horribly out of tune key on a piano with brown keys and its finish stained and covered in bits of melted wax underneath the tarnished, swing out candle holders. This whole house looks more like a museum and staying here is more of a dream come true then anything I’ve experienced so far; I will take this memory home and carry it with me to remind myself of this charmed life that I live.

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"I had dinner with the boys so Jonathan and Catherine could enjoy a romantic meal together with the adults; likely the last one they’ll have for at least the rest of the year. The evening went smoothly and the boys went to bed without resistance and were asleep within 20 minutes. Sleep was once again sporadic, though, and I was awake early because Tom was moving around a lot and I couldn’t sleep for longer then 5 minutes because I kept thinking he was getting out of bed; I have really weird and disturbing dreams when I sleep like that. We had an incredible buffet breakfast in the large, stately dining room, where they provided an amazing choice of croissants, breads and cakes along with the typical fruit and cereal selection. We checked out a bit later, after packing up, standing by one of the huge open windows and listening to the local church bells chime for 10 minutes signaling the beginning of the Sunday morning service, and paying the €500.00 bill; we’re now headed north towards Calais with cloudy skies overhead and rain pounding on the windshield. Every negative aspect of this experience was worth being a guest in that house. I will miss France and all the wishes it granted."

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It took over 8 hours to get home once all was said and done, partly due to the huge delays at the Euro Tunnel due to a new automated check-in system with a touch screen. We ended up catching a train an hour and a half after our 4:45 reserved crossing. Everyone was complaining about how much money was wasted on a system that absolutely defeats the purpose of making the process more convenient; but if you ask me, it’s simply a test of the intelligence of the general public. Let me tell you, I witnessed the procedure, the British and the French didn’t bode well. We arrived home restless and tired to a kitchen that wreaked like garbage because of a bin that wasn’t emptied before we left, which was overflowing with maggots. Our dear Ginger Ranger also left a few welcome home gifts in random places throughout the main floor. Besides that, I was happy to be home and was greeted by a shiver of delight upon entering my room on the third floor, with all the peace, quiet and privacy it provides; God bless ‘em, but it’s good to get away.

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